Lake Garda (north) – the Trentino region

The largest lake in Italy

Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, spans three different provinces: Verona, Brescia, and Trento. It was formed by a Paleolithic glacier, and has a number of rivers and streams leading to it. It has been captured in writing and photography for centuries, but this does not dilute the effect of seeing it in person. The lake is so vast and clear and blue that it is difficult to not feel an immediate sense of calm when you see it. It is so flat and still, and made more so by being in contrast to the tall and sprawling mountain ranges around it. The air feels and smells pure, and all senses are heightened in an area of such space.

One of the most beautiful areas of the lake to explore is that which forms part of the Trentino region. This region has a population of half a million and it is renowned for the Dolomite mountains, which form part of the Alps. This makes the region high up the list for those seeking an area for cycling, snowboarding, and mountain climbing.

Two of the most popular lakeside towns in the region are Riva del Garda and Torbole.

 

RIVA DEL GARDA

This is a pretty and charming little town on the north side of Lake Garda, with a population of approximately 160,00. It’s where Nietzsche came to take his holidays, which is hardly surprising, as there are few more relaxing places to stop and think and write than at the side of this majestic lake.

Many assume that the main attraction of the area is the lake alone. This couldn’t be further from the truth. A stay in Riva del Garda allows you to explore medieval fortressess and the rest of the historic centre. And of course, unforgettable walks along the lakeshore.

Catena Square is the first square to be reached if arriving by ferry. It is a favoured spot for people-watching due to the views and picturesque old buildings.

This is a great introduction to the town, before heading to Piazza Cavour to admire the parochial church of Maria Assunta, or to sit in one of the many fantastic cafes to choose from. The square is home to a lively market. Most mornings you can watch the fresh fruit, cheese, and fish arrive. It is full of locals talking about their day, and you feel as though you are at home here very quickly because the tourists tend to stay by the waterfront. When you have finished admiring the food there is also an impressive fresco on the dome of the Baroque Church of Maria Assuta to look out for.

Another way to approach this town is through the San Marco City Gates, which are remnants of the medieval city walls.

The Venetian Bastion can be seen from most parts of Riva del Garda. It is a white tower, about a 30-minute walk up the mountain on the West side of the town. The walk is rewarded with a quaint café and a viewing area of the lake.

The Old Ponale Path offers a view of the town from a different perspective. It is a beautiful wide track running along the side of the lake, widely used by cyclists and walkers, which offers stunning views the whole way. There is great variety of scenery along the way, including vineyards, rivers, and old villages with historic piazzas, churches, and fortresses. You can either cycle the whole way and end up in lago di ledro where a dip in the water offers a refreshing break. If you forget your swimming costume or just want a leisurely cycle you can just have a break in the little bar along the way instead and take in the views. For many, it is the best attraction of the area as it is a way to avoid the tourists and to immerse yourself in the natural beauty.

This is not the only biking trail, there are a number of others in the area.

 

TORBOLE

This town, also on the north shore of the lake, bordering Riva del Garda, has a smaller population of around 2,500. It looks like an amphitheatre to the lake, and has such a mild and pleasing climate that when Goethe visited in 1786 he claimed to have found true happiness.

A good way to enjoy the climate, views, and general ambience, is to walk along the Busatte Tempesta scenic path. In a number of spots along the path ther are ladders that take you up and down the cliff faces but this is nothing to be afraid of, even those with virtigo claim to have found it very safe and worth the effort. There is also plenty of opportunity for abseiling in the area.

If you would rather keep your feet nearer the lake, however, then you can make the most of the watersport companies around the town. There are many ‘Canyon Adventures’ guides who will take you fun kayaking, action kayaking, and canyoning, where you can really get in and around the lake. Alternatively, go solo with wind surfing and sailing at your leisure, as do countless others.

Torbole offers as much in the way of historic sites as the neighbouring Riva, with the Baroque-style Saint Andrea Church rewarding those who climb up to it with a view of the old part of town.

When it comes to cuisine, the traditional food in the area is of course plentiful trout from the lake, as well as polenta, and game.

We’ll let Goethe sum up the area: "Tonight I might have been in Verona, but there was still a glorious work of nature at my side, a precious spectacle, the Lake of Garda; I did not wish to miss it, and am gloriously rewarded for my detour”.

 

Text: Lucy Williams