At first glance, Gubbio can give the impression of being quite austere. The narrow streets of the historical centre are lined with gothic buildings, most of which were built in the 14th and 15th century.
But Gubbio is full of surprises.
The eugubini, as Gubbio’s locals refers to themselves, are actually said to be slightly mad. In a good way, of course. The fact that the town is home to the largest christmas tree in the world, is an example of the kind of unrestrained and ingenious behaviour one can expect from Gubbio. It is also reflected in the name of the famous fountain on the small square in front of Palazzo del Bargello, fontana dei matti, the fountain of the mad. Running three full rounds around this fountain will earn you the patente da matto, a license to be mad.
It was built at the foot of Mount Ingino, in the pre-roman days, by the Umbri. This ancient people left behind tablets, written in the Umbrian alphabet, that describe the ceremonies of the priests of Jupiter. Today these tablets are exhibited at the Civic Museum housed in Palazzo dei Consoli.
The Romans also left evidence of their presence, in the form of an amphitheatre. The ruins of this once massive structure can be found on a beautiful field right outside the city. In connection with the theatre one can also find a Roman mausoleum, that is incredibly well preserved.
An event that must not be missed is the Corsa dei Ceri that takes place every year in Gubbio. This is a competition between three teams, each representing a saint. Dressed in the bright colours of each saint, the teams must hoist a statue of their saint and carry it up the mountain. The statues weigh about 300 kgs and are over four metres tall.
Gubbio is often passed through by pilgrims, heading for the town of Assisi. This is because Gubbio is said to be the place where St. Francis, the patron saint of Italy, found his true path of life. During a period St. Francis lived and worked among the poor and the lepers in Gubbio, and this is when he realized that he must forsake his earthly possessions and devote himself solely to the preaching of peace and fraternity. On the spot where this is said to have played out, the freemasons built a church, the Chiesa di S. Francesco della Pace.
So don’t let the first impression decieve, Gubbio is a quirky and fun-loving town. It holds many secret charms that will enchant you if you look deeper.